Milano Moda Haftası: Moschino İlkbahar/Yaz 2026

Adrian Appiolaza, Moschino için hazırladığı İlkbahar/Yaz 2026 koleksiyonunda değeri pahada değil yaratıcı fikirlerde arıyor. İlhamını 1960’ların sonlarında İtalya’da ortaya çıkan Arte Povera hareketinden alan tasarımcı, sıradan malzemeleri zekice kurgularla dönüştürerek ironiyi yeniden merkeze alıyor.

Koleksiyon, artık kumaşlardan oluşan patchwork elbiseler, ölü stoklardan yapılmış trençkotlar ve çuvalı çağrıştıran eteklerle zanaat ruhunu yansıtıyor. Franco Moschino’nun imzasını taşıyan “Niente” (Hiçbir şey) baskılı beyaz tişört, koleksiyonun manifestosu gibi dururken arşivlerden güncellenmiş gazete baskıları ve klasik trompe-l’œil efektler tasarıma nostaljik ama taze bir katman ekliyor. Smiley logolu baskılar, örgü elbiseler ve hırkalarda markanın oyunbaz DNA’sını sürdürmeye devam ediyor.

Floral desenler, rafya püsküller ve örgü detaylarla zenginleşen tasarımlar hem üç boyutlu hem de el işi hissi uyandıran bir doğallık taşıyor. Ancak koleksiyonun en dikkat çeken yanı gündelik objeleri dönüştüren aksesuarlar: püsküllü sandaletler, balon köpek broşlar, tencere ve elma paketi formunda çantalar, Appiolaza’nın ironiyle kurduğu yaratıcı bağın güçlü örnekleri.

Finalde “Stop!” yazılı bir bebek yüzü tişört elbise ile verilen mesaj netti: Bu sezon Appiolaza yalnızca estetik değil etik bir pozisyon da alıyor. “Yeniden kullan, geri dönüştür, yeniden hayal et” çağrısıyla sürdürülebilirliğe dikkat çekiyor. Appiolaza, Moschino’da geçirdiği kısa sürede markanın mizahi dilini korurken bu kez daha derin ve bilinçli bir ton yakalıyor. Minimalizmin başı tuttuğu bu sezonda biraz eğlenceden zarar gelmeyeceğini hatırlatıyor.

Milano Moda Haftası: Moschino İlkbahar/Yaz 2026 / 0

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