Paris Moda Haftası: Saint Laurent İlkbahar/Yaz 2026

Paris Moda Haftası’nın açılış akşamında Saint Laurent bir kez daha kendi alanında ne kadar güçlü bir duruşa sahip olduğunu hatırlattı. Eyfel Kulesi’nin eteklerine yerleştirilen beyaz ortancalarla bezeli bahçe, iç içe geçmiş YSL logosu şeklinde tasarlanmıştı. Anthony Vaccarello’nun yaratıcı vizyonu, klasik Fransız şıklığını çağdaş bir tonda yeniden tanımladığı bir podyuma dönüştü.

Saint Laurent İlkbahar/Yaz 2026, Launchmetrics Spotlight

Koleksiyon iki ayrı yönüyle öne çıktı. İlk yarı, markanın köklerine sıkı sıkıya bağlı, keskin ve kendinden emin bir rock’n’roll tavrına sahipti. Deri ceket ve etekler Robert Mapplethorpe’un provokatif estetiğinden ilham alırken Vaccarello bunu rafine Parisli bir bakış açısıyla yeniden işledi. Deri ceketler, aşırı büyük fiyonklarla tamamlanan gömlekler ve güçlü aksesuarlarla tamamlanan siluetler koleksiyonun bu bölümüne sert ama kontrollü bir enerji kattı. 

İkinci yarıda ise sahneye daha romantik ama bir o kadar da teatral bir ruh hakimdi. 15 elbiselik final grubu, abartılı omuz detayları ve kabarık etek formlarıyla barok bir yorum taşıyordu. Ancak kullanılan hafif naylon kumaşlar ve sportif detaylar bu romantizmi zaman zaman yüzeysel kıldı, derinlikli bir duygusal bağ kurmak yerine daha çok teatral bir izlenim bıraktı.

Bella Hadid’in sessiz ama etkili dönüşü, vinil trençkotlar ve safari elbiseler arasında kendine yer bulurken Vaccarello’nun Saint Laurent kadını bir kez daha netleşti: Feminenliğini geleneksel kalıplardan ödünç almayan, ihtişamı gösterişten değil özden gelen bir karakter.

Vaccarello, Saint Laurent’ın provokatif kadın imgesini klişelerden uzak tutarak güncelledi; nostaljiye düşmeden, geçmişe saygı duyan bir tavırla.

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